Endangered Island—Martha's Vineyard

Winged creature on Lambert's Cove cottage door

Ferry to Martha's Vineyard

 I take a deep breath of salt-laden sea air on the ferry from Wood's Hole to Martha's Vineyard and catch a whiff of the island's stories: its first Wampanoag people, Puritan settlement, vanished culture of sign language and persistent Portuguese language, sweet bread and other traditions. The smell fills me with peaceful anticipation and piques a hunger to learn those stories, to help preserve the island from modern exploitation and mainland uniformity. This time perhaps I'll explore the endlessly complex ancient ways or paths, a labyrinth that underlies the choke of modern traffic the way the funky fish smell and tacky stick of salt thicken the ocean breeze.

Dr. Fisher Road

I came here first as a child during World War II and returned five years ago for the first of five reunions of the children, grands, partners, spouses (and now a possible great-grandchild) of Eric C. Kast, my late husband.

Carter on Lambert Cove Beach

Erica in Ice House Pond

This year I planned a first, writing week for myself with Carter Frank and Erica Kast, and we stayed in Hidden Village on West Tisbury's Lambert Cove Road. Nearby we came upon Dr. Fisher, a dirt road whose buckles rival ocean waves. Our house was deep in woods and gave me a room with desk where I worked on my novel manuscript for several hours each day, while Carter and Erica swam long distances at Lambert Cove Beach. Nearby we discovered Ice House Pond, a fresh water kettle pond preserved by the Martha's Vineyard Land Bank, one of many organizations that strives to save land from over development.
An afternoon trip to Aquinnah (formerly Gay Head) gave us gorgeous views of the bright, clay cliffs and a glimpse of Wampanoag jewelry made form wampum, quohog shells. A winding path down to an ocean beach offers surf and a walk below the cliffs. There traditional nude bathing persists. I remember this from childhood visits to the island and was delighted to see that natural simplicity still lives, just slightly tucked away from T-shirt shops and chain store fudge.

Maggie and Carter on Senge Pond

The Mass Audobon Society offers great kayak tours of Sengekontacket Pond, an excellent way to see  the birds, crabs, plants and animals of the Felix Neck Wildlife Sanctuary as well as to support one more necessary effort to save the island from clogged roads and urban sprawl.

Carter with spider crab, Sengekontacket Pond

Elijjah (Aza) and Emma on East Chop Beach

 Our second week on East Chop in Oak Bluffs brought together some family members who had never or almost never met: Anton, Emma, Elijjah (Aza), Lola.

Anton and Emma on the porch

Lola in the water

We reveled in the West Tisbury Farmer's Market, cooked and ate communally (10-13 peeps each night), and played games from Bananagrams to Settlers of Cataan to Ticket to Ride. We sunned and swam and played paddle ball on the East Chop Beach and indulged in Mad Martha's ice cream, Moon Magick fudge and Back-Door Donuts.

West Tisbury Farmer's Market

Five years is a long time, and people grow up, as the quantity of beer bottles we recycled attests. Some of the young people grew restless without bikes or car and a limited bus system, so Erica and I resolved to develop a survey to assess each person's priorities for location and activities. Her arts management studies come in handy!

Final night dinner

The results will affect the reunion's future, but I'll always return to the Vineyard. There is so much to learn for an off-island, seasonal visitor, so many paths to wander, so much history to explore. As I contemplate the island's future, my sense of satiation returns to hunger, and I fear that the island I love cannot endure.

The Martha's Vineyard Donors Collaborative is a consortium of island non-profits that aims to use their collective strength to sustain the Vineyard. Understanding the problem is a first step, and their excellent (downloadable) pamphlet addresses the problem with a clear, severe, but humorous and well-written warning: do something now or forget a future for the island. If you've ever lived there, visited the island or wanted to, download the pamphlet, watch a video, and choose your mode of action. There's something for everyone to do.

Lola, Elijjah (Aza) and Joan blowing bubbles.